vallierojas: B&B review: Quidhampton Mill, Wiltshire

It's minutes from Wilton House, and you'll find a warm welcome and perfectly cooked food. If only this lovely B&B weren't on the main road ?

Two minutes from Wilton House and its glorious gardens, on the outskirts of Salisbury, electronic gates are swinging open to reveal a gravelled parking area and loads of children running across a lawn. Wherever the mill once stood, it ain't here now. Instead, I can see an L-shaped modern house, and a dark clapboard building with a low tiled roof next to it ? must be the guest rooms.

Instantly Martin Drewett appears, carrying a small girl, and moments later, his wife, Lesa, too. Would I like a cream tea? Or homemade lemonade in the garden? Purely in the interests of research (of course) I accept.

Their children are playing with those of French Canadian guests, Martin says, showing me the breakfast room (in the L of the main house; it has a sign saying "The Pantry"). Good things happen in here, from chalked-up specials on a blackboard to the pi�ce de resistance, an iPad, next to the visitors' book, for guests' use. Wow ? are room information folders on their way out?

When they moved here, in 2006, Martin and Lesa began converting the garage block into three B&B rooms, which they opened five months ago. My room, the Loft, is above the Cabin and the Bolthole, a double and a twin, respectively, on the ground floor (neither created with accessibility in mind, which is a pity).

Reached up a flight of sisal-covered stairs, my king-size loft is a restful domain of duck-egg blue, a nice change from shades of sludge. Piles of auction-lot books lie in wait, and a Lloyd Loom chair in which to sit and read them. At the far end, a sleek bathroom has big bottles of shower things and a window but no bathmat or dimmer switch if I want a restful late-night soak.

All the windows are open ? on a muggy night I suspect it could get hot up here ? so I can hear tea things down in the garden. Scone, jam and a jug of lemonade are waiting beneath a parasol ? how jolly civilised. Lesa's strawberry jam has whole, fat fruit in it, her lemonade deliciously sharp and refreshing.

A light breeze ripples through a weeping willow. Sheep amble into a field fringed by birch trees. The boys, Harvey and Oscar, climb the garden fence to play and picnic by the Wylye river, which meanders through those trees, says Martin as he fetches and carries.

I'm still sitting out here when my fellow guests return from their pub supper (at the Bridge Inn at Woodford, on Martin's recommendation), full of praise. I've had a long drive and opted to eat here, which Lesa can do when not tied up with the children. A little cheese souffl� and tarragon chicken with perfect veg ? an al fresco supper for �20.

There is only one fly in the ointment ? and it is a fairly big fly. We are on a main road, the A3094, and it is busy. When I wake in the morning, on a supremely comfortable, pocket-sprung bed, the morning rush is thundering past. Perhaps the tin of emergency supplies (toothbrush, contact lens solution) thoughtfully supplied in each room ought to contain earplugs too.

Such a pity ? it is so lovely here, and gets even better at breakfast. Although the meat comes from local butchers (who nickname Martin "Jamie" because he drives his Vespa there), I pick fresh fruit salad and pastries followed by delicious blueberry pancakes and there is help-yourself filter and Nespresso coffee.

If you want rural peace and quiet this won't work, but for a family pitstop (interconnecting rooms), or a base for visiting Stonehenge, Wilton House or Salisbury Cathedral, this is it.
sally.shalam@guardian.co.uk

WHAT TO DO IN THE AREA: BY THE LOCALS

Days out

You can't come to Salisbury and not visit the 13th-century cathedral (01722 555120, salisburycathedral.org.uk), home to one of the four remaining original 1215 Magna Carta scripts. If you have a head for heights, book a tower tour (�8.50 adults, �6.50 children) and climb the 332 steps to the foot of the spire. Tours operate on a daily basis (except Sundays) in the autumn and winter. The cathedral is also a magnificent backdrop for the Christmas festivities, such as the advent procession on 25, 26, 27 November ? enjoy mince pies in the cloisters before entering the cathedral and sitting in eerie silence and darkness before 1,200 advent candles are lit.
Lesa Drewett, of Quidhampton Mill

If you've travelled past Stonehenge on the A303 and dismissed it as a pile of old stones, book yourself a tour with local guide Pat Shelley (07775 674816, salisburyguidedtours.com). He is allowed special access to the site, so you'll be able to go right up to the stones, which normal visitors are not allowed to do. His knowledge and enthusiasm will really bring this ancient monument to life. The tours cost �72pp and fill up fast. The next ones available are in December. LD

Book a tour of Arundells (01722 326546, arundells.org), the stunning former home of the late Sir Edward Heath. The house, in beautiful Cathedral Close, is surrounded by a two-acre walled garden stretching down to the Avon river. Tours cost �8pp and run until 29 October. LD

I always enjoy a leisurely stroll through the Harnham Water Meadows (salisburywatermeadows.org.uk) followed by a drink or meal at The Old Mill (01722 327517, simonandsteve.com) in West Harnham, a great pub on the river with a garden. Or jump in the car and drive five minutes to Old Sarum (english-heritage.org.uk), site of the town's first cathedral. This iron age hill fort provides great views across to the city and surrounding countryside.
Sarah Flanaghan, Salisbury cathedral

A night out

Tickets are selling fast for the Alan Ayckbourn play Way Upstream, running until 8 October at the Salisbury Playhouse (01722 320333, salisburyplayhouse.com). It's worth going just to see the transformation of the theatre with a huge water tank filling the stage ? and a 20ft river boat! Some front row seats are still available if you don't mind risking the odd splash! LD

Top food and drink

We are spoilt for choice for great pubs round here! There's The Ship at Burcombe (01722 743182, theshipburcombe.co.uk) with fantastic food and the Wyndham Arms at 27 Estcourt Road in Salisbury, which specialises in real ales and just won the local Camra pub of the year award. SF

With autumn just around the corner there's an abundance of comfort food on the menu at the Rose and Thistle (01725 518236, roseandthistle.co.uk) in Rockbourne, a picture-perfect village on the edge of the New Forest. Settle in front of a roaring fire and enjoy steak and kidney pudding followed by a wicked sticky toffee pudding. LD

Go shopping

Shop for elegant and timeless chinaware at Branksome China (01425 652010, branksomechina.co.uk) in Fordingbridge (a 20-minute drive from Quidhampton). Housed in a former 1930s cinema, this small family-owned factory makes a massive range of pieces, from simple, stylish beakers to a full dinner service, using traditional methods. LD

The Rockbourne Fair (rockbournefair.org.uk) held at Salisbury Racecourse (a couple of minutes from us) from 19-21 October is great for foodies and a good place to pick up some unique Christmas gifts, with more than 80 stalls selling crafts, clothing, things for the home and local produce. Entrance �5 adults, children free. LD

Sally Shalam